Car Trouble

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JackEd

Well-known member
I have a 2000 Jeep Cherokee. It wont start. Got the battery tested (89% Charged) and the Starter checked good. I can't get it to even crank. I have pulled and cleaned every ground wire I can get to. Suggestions would be helpful.
 
 
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JackEd said:
Does anyone have issues with getting parts from big box auto stores? My wife drives a Chevy Travers 2017. Check engine light came on, AC quit working and the temperature gauge started moving up and down very slowly. I bought a diagnostic tool after the nightmare I had with my Jeep. It said the Engine Temperature Control sensor was messed up. I YouTube the crap out of it and everything confirmed what I had e re sf and what the computer told me. Not super easy but easy enough to get the sensor out, but like with everything I try to fix, the plug connectors tab snapped as soon as I touched it. That tab locks the connector in place onto the male end of the sensor. Obviously now the plug won’t stay tight and get the same symptoms from time to time.

Every place I’ve been to has the sensor, which I don’t need, but they do not have the connector. The dealership has it but it’s almost $200, Amazon has a ton of them for cheap but no way to tell if it’ll 100% be for my wives car. Any suggestions?
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Does Amazon allow checking if a part will work with a specific vehicle like the auto parts stores? I can't remember.

I had a hard time finding a brake pedal stop pad for my vehicle until I scanned the second page of a google search and found GoParts.com.

Sent me one within two days. $5 plus $20 shipping. Five minutes to replace. Maybe, a parts supplier like that one will have what you need.

Or, a local junk yard may have one at a good price. Finally, can the connector be safely attached using electrical tape or something else?

Bon chance!
 
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I used gasket sealer around the outside of the plug to try and keep it from the terminals as much as possible. It’s not moving, but it’s also not correct and I’d like to have down the right way. The dealership quoted me $600 for new sensor and connector, I’m assuming labor as well. It’s sucks because I know what I’m doing.
 
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Don't go to the big box auto parts stores. Ive had excellent luck with the Federated store in Uniontown. If they don't have something they usually get it within a couple hours.
 
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JackEd said:
Does anyone have issues with getting parts from big box auto stores? My wife drives a Chevy Travers 2017. Check engine light came on, AC quit working and the temperature gauge started moving up and down very slowly. I bought a diagnostic tool after the nightmare I had with my Jeep. It said the Engine Temperature Control sensor was messed up. I YouTube the crap out of it and everything confirmed what I had e re sf and what the computer told me. Not super easy but easy enough to get the sensor out, but like with everything I try to fix, the plug connectors tab snapped as soon as I touched it. That tab locks the connector in place onto the male end of the sensor. Obviously now the plug won’t stay tight and get the same symptoms from time to time.

Every place I’ve been to has the sensor, which I don’t need, but they do not have the connector. The dealership has it but it’s almost $200, Amazon has a ton of them for cheap but no way to tell if it’ll 100% be for my wives car. Any suggestions?
Click to expand...
 
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Thanks for that. I’ve been on vacation so haven’t been on my phone. I went to the dealership and just bought the new connector and new sensor bc I knew what I had done before would probably not work correctly with just a new connector. Took about 25 minutes to get the old one out and new stuff spliced and installed. Should’ve done that from the get go.
 
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At this point I should just quit working on cars. Wife needed new front breaks and rotors. Ordered them off Rock Auto, I have the receipt that says I ordered the correct items. Go to take the first rotor off and it has a set screw that hold the rotor to the wheel hub. No big deal torque but gets it right off. Go to put new brakes on new rotor and it won’t fit. It’s the wrong rotor, oh well I’ll put the old one on and just get new rotors in the future. Go to take the set screw out and the torque bit snaps off in the set screw (hand tight only). Turns out the set screw is only there from the manufacturer no real purpose for it. I spent 3hrs trying to drill it out, it finally hit me to get a cutting wheel, notch out the rotor around the set screw then pop it off. I did that and all in all it cost me 6hrs of my Saturday, a new cutting tool, a rotor and 6 drill bits.
 
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